AZT 2019 Day 39: Campsite in Kaibab National Forest (mile 663.5) to Grand Canyon National Park boundary (mile 684.2)

20.7 miles

It was another early start today. This time, I didn't necessarily mean to get up early, but the birds were really loud at first light. I packed up, hit the trail, and was able to see the sunrise, though it was partially obscured by trees.

Sunrise through the trees.

I headed down the trail until I came to a forest road. I then left the trail and headed for a wildlife tank to get some water. Most of the water sources in the area were described by people (in the Arizona Trail app) as “muddy.” The comments from this wildlife tank waypoint claimed it was “good water.” However,  it was a half mile off trail, making it an extra mile round trip. The lengths I go for slightly less bad water.

The water tank was a small basin in a fenced area. When I first approached it, all I saw was a giant ball of algae. Ugh. However, once I went to the other side of the tank, I saw that the water was clear. I filled up on water, mixed up some electrolytes, and ate breakfast.

The wildlife tank. 

Back on the trail, I soon came to my next point of interest for the day, the Grandview Lookout Tower. I could get a view of the canyon itself by climbing it.

I started to climb the tower. The stairs were a little wobbly. Not too bad, but more than I expected. They were also very steep. I was actually a little nervous climbing them, and I don’t have a problem with heights. I got to the top and found the tower locked. It wasn't an issue though as I got a decent, though far off, view of the canyon. I could also see the snow covered San Francisco Peaks of Flagstaff in the distance.

Grandview Lookout Tower.

Steep stairs.

The Grand Canyon!

I (carefully) climbed back down and continued along the trail. For the most part, it was unremarkable. Not bad in any way, just not special. I was walking through the pine forest, past a dry tank, and then past a muddy tank.

The trail between Grandview and Tusayan.

Coconino Wash near Tusayan.

I had a lot of time to think. I had signal this morning, and checked for Arizona Trail updates. I saw someone had posted that she was having difficulty getting permits through the Grand Canyon, and was originally told she would have to wait two days.

I was headed into Tusayan today, the town right before the Grand Canyon National Park entrance. Originally, I was going to spend time in town, mainly eating and using the internet, before camping right outside the park boundary. I was making great time, so I decided to take the shuttle from Tusayan into the park and hopefully get to the backcountry center before it closed. I figured it would be nice to know the plan for the next few days instead of being surprised by it tomorrow.

After about 15 minutes of figuring out how to get around a fence and into town, I headed across the street to the visitors center. A bus had just pulled up and I couldn't believe my luck. Unfortunately, I couldn't pay the park entrance fee on the bus, so I went back into the visitors center to purchase it, then waited for the next bus.

The Visitors Center in Tusayan.

I finally took the purple line into the park, then switched to the blue line to get to the backcountry center. I also made a brief stop at the Bright Angel Lodge. My mom had sent me a package of treats and we had arranged with the lodge ahead of time to receive it. I picked up the package, then took the next (crowded) bus to the backcountry center.

I stroad in and went to the available ranger, and telling her that I was an AZT hiker there to arrange camping permits to get through the park. She typed in the computer and told me that I probably wouldn't get a permit for 5 more days. What?! I thought the rangers at least worked with thru hikers to get them through as soon as possible.

I just hiked from Mexico, I didn't have anywhere else to go. I was also just trying to pass through the Grand Canyon, and 5 days was unthinkable. I only had about 100 miles to go and could probably do that in 5 days. I asked about the stock sites where they usually put hikers. I also asked about Cottonwood Campground, since it looked like she was only searching Bright Angel Campground. Nothing.

She then went to talk to the other ranger. They looked in the computer for a while, and the other ranger talked about potentially putting me on a reservation with another AZT hiker, if we wanted to team up. He seemed to think that he could otherwise get me a permit in two days, but I would have to keep coming back in the morning to check. I was given a waitlist ticket for tomorrow. I was 13th in line.

Still a bit stunned, I went outside and started going through the box from my mom, repackaging everything to fit in my food bag. I saw two other young, female AZT hikers go into the center. I warned them about the permit problem. I waited for them to come out so that maybe we could team up on the permit problem.

When, they came out, I asked them what they were going to do and they said they got on their friend’s permit for Cottonwood tomorrow. I started to stammer out the possibility that I could join them, but they said it was their friend's permit and they couldn't say if I could or not. What the hell? Hikers usually look out for each other on the trail.

I finished repackaging my food and decided just to head back to Tusayan. The shuttle bus that came next was packed full. I barely got over the line separating passengers and driver. It just got worse with each stop. I was acutely aware that I had 4 days of hiker stink on me. I'm sure others noticed too. My pee rag (just what it sounds like) was in the outside pocket of my pack and inadvertently stuck in other people's faces at various points. I was so relieved to get to the visitors center and switch to the purple line, which was way less crowded.

I got back to Tusayan, and stopped in the visitors center there to use the bathroom and purchase a new SD card, so that hopefully my DSLR would work again. I went next door to the Stage Stop to get a sandwich. I was told that they stop making sandwiches 15 minutes before closing. I looked at the clock and it was 13 minutes before closing. Damn. Luckily, the guy making the sandwiches offered to still make mine, and I was able to get dinner.

I got back on the trail and headed for the park boundary. To my surprise, the trail became a paved bike path once it crossed the road. I was definitely going to feel awkward camping next to a bike path.

As I crossed the forest roads, I saw them lined with cars and tents. The area right before the park is National Forest land, where camping along the roads is legal. I had done the same thing last year when I had come to the Grand Canyon to backpack.

I wanted to get away from the crowds along the road, so I walked right up to the boundary and set my tent up. Once settled, I tried out the new SD card in my camera and it didn't register either. I guess I'm taking crappy cell phone pictures the rest of the way to Utah.

The park boundary.