Formerly Susanne's PCT Journal. This is a simple trail journal of my long distance thru-hiking adventures/misadventures. Family, friends, and total strangers are welcome to come along for the journey!
-Susanne aka "Snapper"
FT2018 Day 40: Holton Creek River Camp (mile 652.0) to Black Tract Campsite (mile 674.4)
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22.4 FT miles
Soon after I started hiking this morning, I passed Holton Spring. It was what made Holton Creek, which gave the name to the campground I stayed at last night. It is not a very big creek. The spring formed a circular pond that emptied out of one side to form the creek. The creek then dumped out into the Suwannee River after only a short distance.
Holton Spring in the early morning.
Around the area of Holton Spring you could really see the karst (formed by limestone) landscapes. It was fairly bumpy and dominated by large holes formed by water cutting through the soft limestone.
After about 5 miles, I hit Gibson Park for breakfast. It appears to be a campground, but is available for day use. I used the picnic table out front, then used the bathroom and refilled my water supply. The bathhouse had “Way down upon the Suwannee River” painted on it, which are the lyrics to the song by Stephen Foster. It seems like everything in the areas uses it for advertisement.
Bathhouse at Gibson Park .
After Gibson Park, I had a short road walk to cross a bridge over the Alapha River, then followed it back down to the Suwannee. That seemed to be the theme of the day. Walk the Suwannee, turn inland, then walk back down. Some of the detours were probably to access bridges, others were because of private property.
The Florida Trail .
The Alapha River.
I followed the Suwannee for a couple more miles before the big detour off the river. There was a piece of land next to the river that the Florida Trail used to use, but was recently cut off. The app said that they were in the process of trying to buy or lease the land again, but in the meantime we had to do a several mile detour around it.
The Suwannee River .
The detour led through some back country dirt roads occupied by trailer home. Most of the residents I walked past were friendly. One older woman stopped to chat, making sure I was safe, and warning me about a big dog ahead who is not an aggressive dog, but loves to bark. She also gave me some grandmotherly advice that if anyone bothers me that I should “whack ‘em wit' dem poles.” That is sound advice.
Some neighbors were friendlier than others.
Vlog 1
With the warning, I passed the dog without issue, finish the roadwalk, and started back down the shore of the Withlacoochie River to meet up with the Suwannee again.
One of the cool things about this part of the trail was that I passed through the ghost town of Ellaville. I'm glad the app pointed out it was there, otherwise I might have walked past the few remaining ruins without giving it a thought. There were some pilings along the river as well as a chunk of an old structure. If you looked closely there were bricks strewn around the area, though they were covered in green mosses.
Ellaville piling ruins.
Ellaville structure ruins.
Scattered bricks.
Just after I passed the Ellaville ruins, I bumped into CopperTone hiking southbound. I think what he has been doing on the trail has been driving his camper van north of where Sugar Rush is hiking, then meeting up with her, hiking a small section together, and then setting up trail magic for those coming through afterwards.
Sugar Rush got off the trail for a couple days past Ocala and has been behind me. So, the last two times I have seen CopperTone, he has been very apologetic about not having food to give me. CopperTone is super nice. It also sounds like Sugar Rush is catching up to me fast and might be passing me in the next day or two.
Soon I hit Suwanacoochie Spring, which is a freshwater spring that empties out directly into the Withlacoochie right where it meets the Suwannee. It is where the people who used to live in Ellaville would get their fresh water. They had built a retaining wall (now a ruin) to pool the fresh water before it followed out to join the river “tea.”
Suwanacoochie Spring.
Outlet to the river.
Clear water!
It seemed to be a popular spot to day hike or just hang out. I ruined a lot of people's scenic day hikes by sitting in the spring basin filtering water. “Oh, hello! Just a dirty hiker filtering water. Don't mind me.” The water was nice and clear for once, so I it was worth the intrusion I was making on the scenery.
While I was filtering, I struck up conversation with a woman named Belinda. Belinda is awesome, as she regularly makes trips to clean up the trash around the springs. We talked about hiking, the trail, and what it is like hiking the trail as a woman.
After a good conversation, Belinda transformed from friendly stranger to angel. She wanted to help me out on my hike and offered me a bed and a shower. The day after tomorrow I would hit a section of the trail that has nowhere to sleep for a 32+ mile roadwalk stretch. I was going to get up way before dawn and push through it in a day. To make matters worse, it would be raining all day.
I asked her if there was a chance she could help me while in that section and, even though it was much further away, and she volunteered to help me out. It was honestly such a relief. Not only would I not have to push myself that hard physically, but I would have a place to dry off and take shelter from the storm for a night.
Now super motivated, I kept moving down the trail, passing another ruin before heading under I-10. I had about 2 more miles before I hit the Black Tract Campsite where I had intended to stay for the night. I got there at dusk to find people already there. It looked to be a father and a daughter and I was totally barging in on their peaceful father-daughter time overlooking the river. I greeted them but then set up my tent and disappeared into it. I was tired.
26.6 FT miles I had meant to get up really early this morning. There were only two places in the St Marks National Wildlife Refuge where you could camp, and there was one that was supposedly one of the best, if not the best, campsite on the trail. However, it was over 26 miles away. Some of those miles were going to be road walks, so those parts would go quickly. On the other hand, if we encountered swampy areas, it might be a very long day. A little before dawn I yelled over at Sugar Rush to see if she was awake, which she was. We packed up in the dark and, just like last night, went crashing through the brush trying to stay on trail. There were some parts that were clear and other parts that were not so clear. When the sun came up, things didn't necessarily get better. We started to realize why we were having so much trouble last night. Even with daylight we couldn't always track the path on the ground and had to search as a team for hidden blazes. The river made
20.3 miles Just like the past few mornings, it was difficult to get up again. Unlike the past few mornings, I could actually see snow on top of my tent. It was supposed to rain or snow on and off the majority of the day again. That was not a motivating thought to get me out of my sleeping bag. I had also finally used the hand warmers that I had purchased back in Flagstaff, and they were still warm inside my bag. Somehow, I emerged from that bag and packed everything up one last time. I was only about 20 miles from the Utah border and on schedule to finish the trail today. Most of the items I had on me were damp or wet. It didn’t bother me packing them up as I knew I would be warm and dry tonight. What did bother me was having to put on my wet, cold, dirty shoes. After I did that, I had wet, cold, dirty socks as well. In Flagstaff I had also picked up toe warmers, so I stuck those inside my shoes and hoped that they would help. The view looking out of my tent. My camps
14.8 miles I woke up early again today. I figured if the trails today were anything like the trails I ended the day with yesterday, I would need more time. The plan for today was to get to Roosevelt Lake by noon, then wait out the afternoon heat and do a few more miles near sunset or just after dark. Sunrise. Roosevelt Lake had a store that accepted resupply packages. I had a general resupply sent there and my mom sent a box of treats as well. The store also had a bar/restaurant attached. To top things off, people had reported their wifi to be amazing. I figured it would be a good place to spend my time and money. They apparently didn't want hikers hanging around to charge their electronics or wiping themselves down in the bathrooms, and also sent hikers to the ranger station to refill water, but I figured I could work around that. The hills themselves weren't too bad as I started my day. I rolled up and down the grassy hills with views of the lake. Overall, t
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