AZT 2019 Day 44: Campsite near Umbrella Tank (mile 768.4) to Utah-Arizona border (mile 788.7)

20.3 miles

Just like the past few mornings, it was difficult to get up again. Unlike the past few mornings, I could actually see snow on top of my tent. It was supposed to rain or snow on and off the majority of the day again. That was not a motivating thought to get me out of my sleeping bag. I had also finally used the hand warmers that I had purchased back in Flagstaff, and they were still warm inside my bag.

Somehow, I emerged from that bag and packed everything up one last time. I was only about 20 miles from the Utah border and on schedule to finish the trail today. Most of the items I had on me were damp or wet. It didn’t bother me packing them up as I knew I would be warm and dry tonight. What did bother me was having to put on my wet, cold, dirty shoes. After I did that, I had wet, cold, dirty socks as well. In Flagstaff I had also picked up toe warmers, so I stuck those inside my shoes and hoped that they would help.

The view looking out of my tent.

My campsite in the morning.

It wasn’t raining or snowing when I started down the trail, but I was fully suited up anyway with my fleece vest, jacket, rain skirt, and partly ripped, clear, plastic poncho. I looked ridiculous once again, but I didn’t want to stop and put everything on when the storms started again.

Not long after I started hiking, the snow started again. I wasn’t getting the strong winds and horizontal snow of yesterday, but it came down pretty heavily. I walked a long ways without a break because there was no place to sit. Eventually, I found a semi-dry spot under a juniper in order to eat a little bit of food.

Snow on the trail.

Snow covered gate.

Am I still in Arizona?

As the day went on, the snow just got heavier. It started to accumulate too, which is something that didn’t happen yesterday.  I looked down at my PLB and emergency whistle, and it appeared that the snow was accumulating on me too.

So much snow.

Even more snow.

LOL.

I had bought toe warmers back in Flagstaff and had put them in my shoes to use on the last day.  They were not working.  Since the snow was starting to build on the ground, it started to worry about my toes.  I use mesh trail runners on the longer trails since they are breathable and dry quicker.  I have had good luck using them on consolidated/melting snow, but not fresh/accumulating snow. For that, I use waterproof boots.  I started to worry about my toes in these conditions.  I a couple gallon-sized ziplocks remaining in the outside pocket of my bag, so I took a moment to make them a layer between my socks and my shoes. They made so much difference. They kept more moisture out and actually helped keep the heat in.

The snow kept coming down, so there was nothing I could do but keep my head down and keep moving at a good pace to keep warm.  I even had to brush the snow off some of the gate latches. The snow is beautiful, and makes for great pictures, but it is miserable to hike in. Especially in thru-hiker gear.  It is also May on the Arizona Trail, so I didn't exactly pack for this type of weather.  Luckily, I knew I had a warm shelter in my future, so it kept me moving and in a fairly good mood. Before I knew it, I had 10 miles until the border.

10 cold, wet miles to go.

Snow covered yuccas.

Snow covered wildflowers.

Warm and sunny Arizona.

I started coming down a little in elevation.  The snow started to taper off with about 8 miles to go eventually stopping.  I saw footprints in the snow.  I figured they must be from Roman, another thru hiker I met at the North Rim hiker/biker campsite who said he was trying to finish today.  The prints didn't seem too far ahead of me.  I started to see older, smaller prints as well, so I assume someone else must have finished earlier in the day as well. I had no idea who this other person could be.

While the first 10 miles I had walked today were gradual, the last 10 miles were constantly moving up and down.  It wasn't a lot of elevation gain/loss, but enough to slow me down quite a bit. The vegetation at this point had changed from pine trees to shrubs and desert plants. Yucca and prickly pear were sticking out of the accumulated snow.

I got lucky and moved into an island of sun and blue sky.  I could see the dark skies and clouds around me, but it was nice to get the opportunity to dry off or open my bag without worrying about getting everything wet.  I was starting to get some views as well and could see red rocks in the distance.

Blue skies!

Red rocks in the distance

Eventually, I made it to the switchbacks.  The final two miles of the trail are a descent, with the trail dropping steeply in elevation.  I entered a completely different world in those two miles.  I was surrounded by red rock and there was no snow to be seen anywhere. The temperature was so much warmer as well.  I still had on my jacket/fleece and was starting to get hot, despite being cold and damp most of the day.

Coming down in elevation.

Final stretch.

I got near the end and checked my cell phone.  I had a message from my Trail Angel who was supposed to be picking me up at the trailhead.  The message was that he couldn't make it in because there was a "river" crossing the road and it was impassable. He said that I would have to walk an additional 5 miles to meet him.  This made for a stressful and anticlimactic finish to the monument, considering my trail wouldn't actually end there.

I entered an area with campsites and saw Roman with what I assumed was his pre-arranged trail angel ride at one of the sites.  I didn't stop to chat, since I first wanted to finish the trail and get that out of the way before I figured out the next step.

I got to the monument and saw a couple other people at the campground.  I assumed that meant that certain cars, maybe with high clearance and 4WD, could get through.  I rounded a corner to head to the pit toilets and saw a woman who asked if I just finished.  I said that I had and took the opportunity to ask her for a monument photo. Then, I asked if she had come to the trailhead today. Maybe she had a car that could go through the "river."

The northern monument of the AZT.

The woman was another AZT hiker, Iron Lady, who was going to section hike southbound. She had come in yesterday, when the road was not flooded, hiked a little bit into the storm this morning, then decided to turn around (explaining the smaller footprints I had seen).  She and Roman were going to stay the night at the campsite.  When she heard of my difficulty with my ride getting in, she talked with Roman, and they decided to pack up and head out.  She had said she was considering doing it anyway because she had enough of the storm winds. Luckily, the other campers at the campground had told her of a longer exit to the highway that would avoid the flooded road.

I texted my Trail Angel of the plan and the three of us headed down the rutted dirt road towards Jacob Lake, where we would be meeting my Trail Angel.  The road ran along the edge of the red rocks I had seen earlier, which was Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.  At Jacob Lake it was still cold and snowing, and we ate dinner together at the inn's restaurant.  On our way out we encountered Smiley, Honeydew, and Capitan, who were planning on finishing tomorrow, or early the next day.

After dinner, I said goodbye to my fellow AZT hikers, as well as the AZT to get to the hotel and finally get clean, warm, and dry. It was quite the adventurous end to the Arizona Trail, and definitely not the one I pictured.  Eventually, it will be weird to know that I am done, but at the moment, I am excited for the comforts of civilization.  At the monument, I took a moment to reflect on how lucky I am to have done any of these National Scenic Trails, much less three (PCT, FT, AZT).  I pray that I am lucky enough to be able to tackle another in the future.